Restaurant History-English
But
events don’t always follow the plan …Probably too zealous, the two
friends had almost overdone the restoration and decoration of the premises.
Soon it became a Thai testimony of the past, a peaceful heaven in the busy
city. So, Pupisit & Pierre strongly felt they should let friends and
acquaintances share the beauty and the peace of the place.
They
decided to add more activities regarding other types of Thai handicrafts,
and finally (to make the whole enterprise sustainable) to start a
restaurant where clients could be able to familiarize themselves with
incense and scented products making.
“Once
Upon A Time” R.S.207 (Rattanakosin Era, Year 207) was born on 17th
February 1989. After a slow start during the first 5 months, it suddenly
exploded with a big bang right in the center of the Bangkok business-cum-twilight
district when over 50 magazines and newspapers published, within few
months, reports, scoops, pictures, news and interviews. The reason of the
success was that “Once Upon A Time” was not like any other Thai
restaurant, which usually gives priority to food for the empty stomachs…
It was unique because it gave priority to food for eyes, food for nose,
food for ears, food for senses and… food for thought. And it was unique
because it re-created the very essence of the Thai atmosphere that Thais
themselves had let be by-gone. It also saw several art days or weeks being
organized, some with the sponsorship of the Tourism Organization of
Thailand.
Then it
came to an abrupt death, on 1st September 1992. 15 days earlier,
Pupisit & Pierre had received a notice that they had to leave the
premises, the owner being expropriated by the Municipality of Bangkok, the
unique ministerial and historic mansion having to make way for a new road…
Not only Pupisit & Pierre were not given a single bath in compensation,
not only they had to take care of 70 employees suddenly without work, but
they were outraged at the fact that a splendid historical house was going
to be demolished by the same organization which is supposed to safeguard
its treasures for future generations. It was not a natural death, it was
an assassination of sort. Pupisit & Pierre, without the smallest
authority or power to resist the order, reacted quickly: they sent
hundreds of funerals cards to friends, to regular customers, to the press
and to people who support the conservation of historic monuments, asking
them to dress in black & white. 400 persons came, with only 3 not
dressed as requested…There were shows, exhibitions, speeches, stage play,
songs, all on the subject of “crimes” committed on Thai cultural
heritage. At least, a message was sent and reported by the press. Fun
& sadness, laughs & tears, past & future, it was a memorable
evening as there has never been any.
But
“Once Upon A Time”, Pupisit, Pierre and their core staff are die-hard
recidivists. 4 months later, they re-opened the second “Once Upon A Time”
in Bangkok, soi Mahatlek Luang 1, off Rajadamri Rd and soi Langsuan. 8
months later, the landlord sold his land and Pierre & Pupisit were
without a house, one more time…
They
did not find a suitable place right away. At the same time, since June 90,
they had established “Once Upon A Time na Khoum Mae Ping”, on the
banks of the Ping River, in Chiangmai. A splendid Lanna compound, with a
limited but unique guest house, a beautiful garden and a terrace on the
river, started to be well-known. But in July 1993, the rent contract was
not renewed. At almost the same time, Pupisit & Pierre had to close
down 2 restaurants. Without new proper locations, the 2 friends stopped
for a while, but kept equipment, furniture and decorative artifacts.
They
did not stay put. They started what they never had time to implement at
the soi Anuman Rachathon restaurant: taking pictures of people dressed in
periode costumes. They started at Jatujak Market, then moved to The Old
Siam Plaza (near Pahurat and Chalermkrung Theater). For 2 years, they were
the only photo-studio to do this kind of photos and to hand-print sepia
pictures. As usual in Thailand, if it works, it is copied. So it was. But
again, no regret for Pupisit or Pierre, because they had pioneered the
interest in traditional Thai costumes, which was followed not only by the
opening of dozens of photo-studios all over the country, but also by the
production of quantity of TV dramas featuring King Rama V era or Lanna
costumes. Now located for several years in Wang Burapha, they will move to
Siam Romanee, close to Romaninart Park, by February 2002.
In the
meantime, in 1996, an offer was made for a place on the 7th
floor of Juldis Tower, near the swimming pool. A restaurant, entirely
decorated in dark wood, with old furniture, was going to be vacated.
Pupisit & Pierre grabbed the occasion. Unfortunately, the building was
not any more the first very luxury condominium in Bangkok it used to be…Coupled
with the economic downturn, it was a fiasco, financial, moral and on a
marketing point of view, as the entire Thai clientele disappeared due to
serious problems in the building. Again, the 2 friends lost a battle but
not the war. They closed the restaurant and the legal entity, changed the
name from “Once Upon A Time” to the official name of “Ruen Jao Khun
Ou” and let their trusted Arun Kantaprom manage the new place. It took
again about 2 years to re-habilitate the new restaurant in the spirit of
the former “Once Upon A Time” restaurants, in Bangkok and in Chiangmai.
But it
now works. “Once Upon A Time” is re-used as a brand name, as it is
easier to market (people never forgetting this name!). The restaurant is
again an old Thai wooden house (actually a compound of 3 houses) in a
garden with several tall mango trees and luxurious vegetation. It is
located near 2 big streets but is very quiet, because inside a small soi.
It is very much Thai: the houses, the decoration, the employees’
costumes, the music, the scents, the lighting, the old simple artifacts,
the friendly service and the wonderful food. It is again popular with the
Thais as well as with the foreign residents and the tourists.
After 8
years of financial loses and all kinds of difficulties, it successfully
works and stands for what “Once Upon A Time” used to be: a unique
place which perpetuates the Thai tradition at its best.